Juliana Navidad — A La Colombiana Chiva Culiona

The culiona —the big, beautiful, ridiculous bus—groaned. The accordion player struck up “Fuego a la Jeringonza.” The drunk uncles pushed. The grandmothers pushed. Juliana pushed until her Toronto-trained lungs burned with the thin, sweet air of home.

At midnight, they rolled into Jericó. The whole town was waiting, not for Mass, but for them. The new mayor—a slick, university-educated fool—had tried to cancel the chiva’s parade. But there was La Espantapájaros , grille covered in tinsel, speakers blasting “Lista en Medellín,” and on the roof, a woman in a torn designer shirt, holding a bottle of aguardiente like a scepter. Juliana Navidad A La Colombiana Chiva Culiona

Juliana looked at the engine. It was a Frankenstein of wire, tape, and Don Pepe’s prayers. A hose was cracked. The radiator was leaking a sad green tear onto the dirt. The culiona —the big, beautiful, ridiculous bus—groaned

But this year, the chiva was dying. Don Pepe’s son had moved to Bogotá. The younger generation wanted sleek buses with Wi-Fi, not a 1970s relic that smelled of diesel and damp wool. The town council had declared the chiva “unsafe.” Juliana’s own cousin, Carlos, had sent her a mocking voice note: “Vení a ver el entierro de la tradición, gringa de mierda.” Juliana pushed until her Toronto-trained lungs burned with

The rest of the night dissolved into legend. The chiva climbed higher into the clouds, its interior a moving party of villancicos , spilled canelazo , and the smell of pine and frijoles. Juliana sat on the roof—the culiona’s famous roof, where couples went to kiss and children went to see the stars—and looked down at the valley. Every window in every farmhouse was lit with a candle. The world looked like a spilled box of sequins.